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making faces :: soft touch

ah winter, how my lips hate you. it's too bad, really, because the rest of me likes winter, down to about -12 or so. but there's no arguing that i get dried out. nuxe rĂªve de miel is my super best friend at this time of year, even more so than otherwise. [i gave bite's agave lip mask a try only to find out i'm allergic to something in it.] but our [still] new apartment is somewhat drier than the old one [electric vs hot water heating], which meant that, for a long stretch, virtually every kind of lipstick was uncomfortable. the horror. [i wrote a post a while back about the formulas that are friendliest to chapped lips.]

faced with this dilemma, i decided to try something not exactly new, but [for me], out of the ordinary: being a gloss girl. now, i don't mind glosses. i buy them from time to time, and i used to buy more until i discovered that i just wasn't using them near enough to justify the continued purchases. my issues with glosses are that they feather more easily than lipsticks, fade much faster, and, most important, that they just don't deposit the amount of colour that i like. there are "sort of" glosses, like armani's ecstasy lacquer or yves st. laurent's glossy stains, that i do really like, but those are more of a lipstick-gloss hybrid than a true gloss. i wore those quite a bit in january, but i also became determined to make use of all [well, most] of my neglected tubes of gooey goodness, to see if i couldn't come up with some looks i really liked.

spoiler alert: i did.

bad news: i got reminded that many of my favourite formulas and shades are discontinued.

i thought i'd share some of what i've been doing to my face, to give you an idea of the differences. [i'm assuming that we're close enough now that you know the sort of things i usually wear, but if not, feel free to peruse these pages and come back to this post later.]

i was really happy with the way this look turned out, less so with the amount of lint on my dress. yes, that's a dress. it's also my happy place when the weather gets too miserable.

the gloss is urban decay bittersweet, which is, of course, discontinued. it is [was] a lovely grape shade that aligned well with the company's lipstick and blush of the same name. urban decay are releasing their revamped gloss lineup this week, so we shall see if the new matches or betters the old. after an initially uncertain reaction, i've gotten to really like their vice lipsticks. even if the formula isn't quite as top-notch as the satin-finish revolution formula, the matte formula is better and there's a great deal more variety both in colour and finish. i believe the new collection is supposed to have a new version of bittersweet included, but i'm not 100% certain on that. 

the eyes and cheeks are both from an ancient [in makeup years] collection by guerlain, from summer 2011. the eye colours are all from the terre indigo eyeshadow palette, one that i'd not worn in a while. i'd forgotten how excellent it was, and how vibrant the colours could look, despite the palette itself looking earthy and muted. [there's also a bit of colour pop zulu liner on my bottom lash lines, which crumbled and died as i was applying it. the liner died, not the lash lines.] the cheeks come courtesy of the terra inca sublime radiance powder, which makes a nice blush on me, despite ostensibly being a bronzer.

one of the things that wearing glosses rather than lipsticks pushes me to do is come up with more imaginative and colourful eye looks. for instance, this is one with mac gorgeous gold, humid and surf usa, and rouge bunny rouge abyssinian catbird. the cheeks are mac next to skin, which is basically just a soft contour, and nars nico, which is a soft highlight. nothing to compete with the eyes.

likewise, anything with that much colour up top demands something more subtle on bottom, which in this case is givenchy gloss interdit in celestial black. this one is still available, but i believe the formula is being replaced in the near future. still time to grab a replacement, which i need to do, since i've almost run through my current one.

another nice thing about being forced to opt for a gloss every day is that it makes me look at things that i haven't picked out in a while. for instance, the shade below- fancy cat- which came out with mac's fabulous felines collection in fall 2011. it's a cool-leaning brown with gold shimmer that i never seem to reach for, having gotten the idea in my head that it was too greyish to work for me. looking at these photos, i believe i was mistaken about that. the gloss is translucent enough that it looks quite plummy when combined with the pink tone of my lips.

there's a mix of eyeshadows from urban decay's naked 3 eyeshadow palette [liar, nooner, mugshot, darkside, strange], which might just be my most-worn palette of all time. for ladies with cooler complexions, so-called neutral palettes can be frustrating, since they almost invariably lean warm. naked 3 isn't exactly cool, but it's less warm than other options. the blush i'm wearing is nars blissful.

i haven't tried mac's reformulated lipglass, since i already have way too many glosses to handle. the thick, sticky texture that people learned to love in the nineties had definitely fallen out of favour, but from what i've seen, the new version has little to distinguish it from other glosses on the market. what they gained in lightness and smoothness, they lost in colour payoff, which was the thing that made their glosses so notable.

having ventured part way down the road of the plum smokey eye with that look, i figured i'd just go the rest of the way with this next [and final] one. the base is armani's eye tint in sunset, with lust red eyes to kill shadow patted over the centre part of the lid. i softened the edges of the purple with mac twinks shadow on the outside of the crease, and a limited edition light taupe called innuendo on the inner crease. the highlight is mac dazzlelight [as it frequently is with me]. the cheeks are hourglass ambient lighting powder in mood light, which is deep enough to be a blush on me.

the gloss i'm wearing is my very first chanel glossimer, myriade. it is, or was, a lovely strawberry red colour that was pretty translucent, but also quite succulent. as with mac, i haven't gotten around to trying the shiny new glossimer formula yet. in this case, it doesn't seem to be that different, it's just that all the old colours have been cleared out and new ones added in. i understand the need for cosmetics companies to keep things current, but how about this for an idea: you can refresh colour selection and update formulas without getting rid of everything that's come before.

so that's a quick look at what i've been doing with my face, as well as a sense of how behind the times i am on glosses. feel free to pass on advice for formulas i might want to check out that i can still actually buy, or share any secrets you have for keeping your lips and skin hydrated.

p.s. :: regarding the image at the top of the post: am i the only one who finds it odd that there's an ad campaign that's been running for nigh on twenty years based on the joke "do bears shit in the woods?"


gothleesi said…
Wow, I really love the first look! I could have sworn the top is Naked Heat.

I like the Fenty gloss (just like most makeup fans, it seems) as well as NYX butter glosses! The Fenty looks almost metallic, which I think is interesting.

as long as you're here, why not read more?


ok, so i've been lax about posting here. i apologise. there are reasons. i don't know if they'ree good reasons, but they include:

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so this conversation happened [via text, so i have evidence and possibly so does the canadian government and the nsa].

dom and i were trying to settle our mutual nerves about tomorrow night's conversion screening, remembering that we've made a fine little film that people should see. which is just about exactly what dom had said when i responded thusly:

me :: i agree smedley. [pauses for a moment] did you get that here?

dom :: no?

me :: the aliens who were looking at earth and then decided it wasn't worth bothering with because people smoked even though it was bad for them?
come to think of it, that might mean that smokers prevented an alien invasion in the seventies.

dom :: what ?!?!?

me :: i've had wine and very little food. [pause] but the alien thing was real. [pause.] well, real on tv.

dom :: please eat something.

of course, i was wrong. the ad in question ran in 1983. this is the part where i would triumphantly embed the ad from youtube, except that the governmen…

mental health mondays :: separate and not equal

given the ubiquitousness of racial disparities in the united states, there's no reason why we should be surprised that they exist in mental health care. unlike a lot of other areas, the people in power have acknowledged the problem for decades. but the situation isn't getting any better. 
the united states surgeon general documented the differences between white and non-white mental health care back in 2001 so we can assume that it was already a known problem at that point. two years later, a presidential commission said the same damn thing and groups like the national association for mental health seized on this to develop guidelines on how to bridge the ethnic gap. from the turn of the century through 2007, the number of papers and publications talking about the mental health care gap spiked. the issue was viewed as being on par with obesity when it came to urgent problems.

starting in 2004, researchers undertook a massive project that involved the records of nearly a quart…