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making faces :: fall for all, part 4 [a seasonal colour analysis experiment]

well, after a bit of a delay, we have arrived. this is the fourth instalment of my series taking the typical fall palette of colours, along with the clothing and makeup associated with the season, and interpreting them for the twelve archetypes of sci/art seasonal colour analysis.

you can see the previous three parts of the series here:

fall choices for autumn seasons
fall choices for winter seasons
fall choices for spring seasons

having spent a lot of time in the last few years as an interested amateur seasonal colour analysis sleuth, i wanted to look at the ways in which each of its "blueprints" could create their own version of a fall look, both in clothing and makeup.

the delay in getting this series completed has nothing to do with the difficulty of the task. i stand firmly behind my statement from part 3: spring is definitely the most difficult colour analysis season to interpret for an autumn colour palette and style. my delay, unfortunately, has more to do with overcast days making for lousy lighting conditions. [i know that, given the amount of time i've been doing this and the chances of there being enough available hours of sunlight on any given day in eastern canada dictate that i should just buy myself some lights and a backdrop, which would also save you from having to look into the wilds of what has become a de facto storage closet, but i've been told in no uncertain terms by the man who knows more about cameras than i ever will that we do not have space for such things, even though it's all collapsible and i would totally make sure to take it down when i wasn't busy with it and it would be useful as part of the work i do anyway- small business marketing, if you didn't know- and besides i just spent money finally buying myself a new chair because i finally decided that i couldn't take it and anything that didn't actively try to break my back on an hourly basis was likely better than what i was sitting on, which you can read about here. if you'd like to make a donation towards the cost of adding studio lights/ some sort of background so you aren't staring into my weird crap/ moving us to a slightly larger space/ buying me a drink so that i don't prattle on this much, please feel free to do so.]

the point is that at long last i have completed my fall journey and i'm ready to share.

light summer

as the lightest and brightest of the summer seasons, this is probably the trickiest of the three to adapt to a fall look. put it down to the waning influence of spring. light summer colours have greater clarity to them than other summer colours, which seems off when you think of autumn's deeper, richer, more muted tones. but one thing that i think can be done very well with a light summer palette is cosiness- the soothing softness of a favourite sweater, sweet homey shades like those of a country cottage, brighter tones that have spent perhaps just a little too long in the sun. these shades still have a clarity, but they're a little fuzzier around the edges.

although lighter in colour and application, i did do a slightly smoky eye and a deep lip considering the range of the light summer palette. i'm not a light summer, i'm just the only model to which i have access, but on someone who did fit within the light summer spectrum, these colours would appear more pigmented. that said, dom made a point of saying that he really liked this whole look, before he even knew that it was "planned".

products used

the base [for all looks] ::
hourglass mineral veil primer
nars all day luminous weightless foundation "mont blanc"
diorskin perfecting concealer "001"
mac paint pot "painterly"

the eyes ::
armani eyes to kill e/s "scarab violetta" [shimmery muted lilac]*
rouge bunny rouge e/s "trumpeter koel" [stormcloud blue-grey]
rouge bunny rouge e/s "lilac reef currasow" [pale powdery lilac]
inglot matte e/s "352" [peachy highlight]
urban decay 24/7 e/l "desperation" [soft warm grey]
guerlain cils d'enfer mascara
marcelle power volume mascara "navy"

the cheeks ::
nars blush "deep throat" [light peachy pink]
dior cheek and lip glow
mac beauty powder "play it proper" [pinkish white]*

lips ::
rouge bunny rouge succulence of dew l/s "relish of heaven" [semi-sheer strawberry red]

*suggested alternates :: scarab violetta = mac beautiful iris [lighter, brighter]; play it proper = hourglass incandescent light [softer, warmer]

we have a tendency to think of lighter clothing colours as going with lighter seasons, but they can just as easily be rendered in warm season fabrics. which is why i went for the abstract patterned skirt from dinh ba. the fabric is synthetic but almost feels like very soft wool. so it flows and bounces, but it also has a weight. and although you can't really see it, it has a slit between the asymmetrical layers, so while it's very office friendly, it can be ever-so-slightly sexy too.

that sweater is a muted iris blue with purple undertone that could suit either light or true summer pretty well, but i liked it with the brighter pop of pink underneath, combined with a necklace of turquoise-coloured stones. any spring mix can handle some level of turquoise with ease. all of the colours here are well within the range a light summer person can manage, even the shoes, which are actually a sort of dusty lavender colour. [unfortunately discontinued by fluevog, although you can find some others in the same family.] the darkest thing that i'm wearing is the socks i have on, which are a medium charcoal grey and which also have a slightly woolly texture, so they feel right for fall.

true summer

forget "hot fun in the summertime", because in colour analysis, summer is all about that cool, refreshing glass of water, or isolated shower, or mist from the sprinkler, or just the momentary respite of a cloud passing in front of the hot sun. summer for colour analysts is very cool and very languid.

in terms of applying fall's palette, you have to cull out a lot of colours: there is no such thing as a summer season orange, yellows are extremely limited and reds are cooled and desaturated enough to appear more pink against the warmer, deeper, more saturated reds of later autumn and winter. where i found that things really came together for me was with the greens. every season has their own greens, probably more so than any other shade, so it's just natural to bridge the gap on temperature and saturation through the one colour that appears in multiple ways in both palettes.

what summer and autumn share is a muted quality, so the most important thing here is to avoid anything too garish: a gypsy shawl, fashioned from multiple strips of brocade and velvet is likely to appear overwhelming on this person, not least because it's likely to introduce a heat that someone of this colouring can't stand. ironically, i think of true summer people as those delicate types who tend to flush very quickly when the weather gets too hot: somewhat delicate and at home in the shadows, where it's cooler, greyer and more subdued.

of course, since fall can be seen as more shadowy, i felt like i could go a bit more intense with the colouring while still staying true to a summer colour palette.

products used

the eyes ::
ellis faas creamy eyes "e117" [soft grey-green]
mac e/s "parisian skies" [deep grey-blue]*
mac e/s "swell baby" [soft grey satin]*
mac e/s "aquavert" [greyed icy mint green]
mac e/s "cloudbound" [soft pinkish ivory]*
urban decay 24/7 e/l "smoke" [medium charcoal grey]
guerlain cils d'enfer mascara

the cheeks ::
clinique blush "pansy pop" [pinkish lavender]
mac blush "next to skin" [cool beige]*
armani highlight powder "orient excess" [soft white]*

the lips ::
guerlain rouge automatique "shalimar" [soft, semi-sheer fuchsia]

*suggested alternates :: parisian skies = trumpeter koel [softer, greyer] or nars mandchourie #2 [darker, bluer]; swell baby = guerlain les gris #1 [deeper, more matte]; next to skin = mac strada [lighter, cooler] or nars douceur [warmer, darker]; orient excess = bobbi brown porcelain pearl [brighter, more shimmery]

the light was terrible on the day that i did this look, but i'd tried it twice before and was frankly so fed up with the whole process that i decided to go ahead with the less-than-ideal photos. i'm surprised at how bold the eyes and lips look in the low light, which just goes to show that on summer's muted colouring, this would be a full-impact kind of affair, with a smoky eye and a bold lip.

the accompanying outfit again features green, a dark, forest-green-bordering-on-teal sweater [thrift shop find] and a snuggly pencil skirt in a mottled grey. it looks like jersey, but is heavier, which is nice for both heat and holding shape. for those of you, like me, who have looked at those standard marled shades and wondered "who can wear those?", the answer is "people in the summer colour range". those fabrics are soft, muted and cooled, all of which are summer's territory. in this case, though, there's no sunny pink or red beamed in. yes, those are the same grey socks i wore in the previous look and yes, i washed them in between wears. i went with a dark green shoe as well. for some reason, although summer is one of the lighter seasons, i always feel like i can cheat the true season darker as long as i stay on the cool side of the spectrum.

soft summer

finally, we come back almost to where we started. it's almost, because, of course, we started with the soft autumn type, which is warmer, and we're ending up with the soft summer, which leans cooler. nonetheless, the warm, smoky heat of autumn is present in this palette, and it wasn't anymore difficult to find an autumnal look for this than it was for the soft autumn season. hell, i'd almost say that it was easier, because soft summer complexions look best when they have a smokiness to them, so the eye looks so dominant at this time of year need just a little adjustment for this palette.

if you've been following this blog for a while, you'll know that i once thought that i was a soft summer person, up until the point where i tried the look out in full and realised that it was only something i should try if i were going to meet someone i never wanted to hear from again for the rest of my life.

that said, i was surprised to find that this time around, i didn't entirely hate the soft summer look. by the end of the day, i had to admit that i looked pretty ragged when i caught a glimpse of myself in the mirror, but it was generally a better experience than i'd had before.

products used

the eyes ::
mac paint pot "camel coat" [soft, cool taupe]
mac paint pot "tailor grey" [medium cool brown taupe]
urban decay e/s "limit" [matte nude pink]
urban decay e/s "stranger" [soft pink-white highlight]
urban decay e/s "factory" [shimmery taupe]
urban decay 24/7 e/l "desperation"
chanel le volume mascara "brun" [dark, cool brown]

the cheeks ::
edward bess blush/ highlight "south of france" [sandy mauve]
charlotte tilbury filmstar bronze and glow [soft tan- used bronzer side only]
hourglass ambient lighting powder "mood light" [warm mauve]

the lips ::
mac glaze l/s "riveting" [plummy taupe with cool shimmer]*

*suggested alternates :: riveting = mac stone [warmer, more matte... not a great dupe; better would be rouge d'armani sheer 614, which is cooler, lighter and more sheer, but still closer than anything else i can think of, but it's unfortunately discontinued as well.]

because this is a muted season, i didn't want too much distance between the colours, so rather than trying to embrace an intense eye and lip, i went for the first option and just kept the lip in the same, smoky-looking palette. and from there, i just decided to keep within the complementary tones suggested by the shades from the naaked 3 palette: antique rose, sugarplum purple, and grey, which is an all-purpose colour for summer. i find that soft summer lends itself exceptionally well to antique-looking shades and textures, which is why i went for a pewter pendant and the embossed leather on the shoes. this is an exceptionally ladylike season, which is perhaps one more reason i don't wear it that well...

for all the summer seasons, but for this one in particular [because contrast is at an absolute minimum], it's easiest to build on analogous colour groups- moving from one side of purple or green or blue to the other, but staying under the same umbrella.

finally, i had two nail polishes that i wore for the "summer" part of this fall experiment, either of which i think would work well on any summer person during this season: opi hello hawaii you [a dusty medium violet] and a-england briar rose [a pearly soft red-pink].

and that, my dear readers, is all. autumn for anybody, no matter what your natural colouring. because we should all be able to enjoy the fashions and makeup of the season without feeling as if we're wearing a mask. if you have any questions about what you see here, or about anything in this series, please feel free to ask. 


Anonymous said…
Loving all the looks :-) Also, can we trade shoe collections please? Great taste in footwear, miss!
Kate MacDonald said…
Glad to know you're enjoying them! My shoe collection is almost entirely the product of an addiction to John Fluevog. Very dangerous...

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