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making faces :: whispers of spring

spring still is not upon us for another few days, but spring makeup collections have been upon us for a while now. in fact, i first encountered yves st. laurent's "boho stones" spring collection while i was finishing my christmas shopping, which should warrant a ticket or something. i mean, telling canadians that spring is right around the corner in december qualifies as at least mildly offensive.

nonetheless, i was entranced by the marbled packaging and sweet, fresh, spring-like colours, so it was only a matter of time until i gave in to temptation. of course, it's been a matter of more time that i've been meaning to get around to writing this review, but that's at least partly because i've had very narrow windows in which to get decent swatch photographs because montreal doesn't get a lot of light in the middle of winter. [although, to be fair, it's been brighter than average this year, especially compared to last. but it doesn't stay bright for long, so getting swatches is half having decent light and half me being free to do swatches during the three hours of daylight we have.]

fortunately, the collection is still available from most retailers, so you shouldn't have too much trouble tracking down any items that you want.

"boho stones" is all about milky washing of colour, calling to mind a tie-dyed effect, but done in the sweet shades of early spring. there are apple blossom pinks, tree bud greens and a touch of winter white. some photos make the collection look quite colourful, but this is all about delicate, muted pastels with low contrast from one shade to another, although there is one brighter lip product on offer.

my choice from the collection was the "indie jasper" eyeshadow palette. i'm a fan of the ysl shadow formula, both in the palettes and in singles, and i'm a sucker for the combination of green with pinky-peach. it's something that's been done before, but the examples that i can think of- most notably guerlain's "coup de foudre" palette from a few springs back- have been more about pigmentation and warmer, woodsy colours.

the palette includes five colours, which are supposed to be, going clockwise from the upper left, an all-over base, a highlight, two lid shades and a liner shade in the middle. i can't see this palette working this way, though, because the central shade can in no way be considered a liner. i'd also have some concerns about using the first colour as a base, since base shades are normally more matte/ satin in finish and because i think that it would clash noticeably with other colours in the palette.

the first shade, we have a gorgeous soft peach with a white sheen to it. this is a really pretty shade, pinker than similar shades like chanel "complice" or le metier de beauté "nouvelle". as a result, i think it will suit cooler complexions more than warm ones, but hey, we don't get a lot of peaches that lean cooler, so grant us this one, will you? this one also had a tendency to spread itself around, but the colour payoff was much better, so you don't have to go back to the pan quite as often. i found the lasting power on this shade to be greater than the others in the palette.

indie jasper #1

l to r :: indie jasper, lmdb nouvelle [l.e.]
second is a creamy vanilla, shimmery without being outright frosty. it makes a good highlighter on me, although it's a touch deeper than the highlight shades i normally use, and there's enough yellow in the mix that it's unlikely to turn ashy on darker or warmer skin tones. it is very delicate, so it helps to pat it in place and build it up to the desired intensity, which is a good thing [you have more control over the exact shade you get] or a bad thing [it takes more work], depending on your point of view. it does have a tendency to kick up a lot of powder, which is annoying in something that takes layering.

indie jasper #2
there are a lot of highlighter shades like this, although the golden warmth does make it more distinctive. it's a softer option to something like mac "nylon".

third, there is a light, icy green, a very nice complement to the peach shade. again, it's going to be friendlier to cooler complexions, although greens tend to adapt fairly well compared to other colours. this colour wasn't quite as powdery as the previous two, but it still got a little messy. this is another one that really needs to be patted in place, or else it looks more like a white with a slightly green cast than the colour you see in the pan. i think that you could combine it with the first shade for a very delicate look, with more of a sheen than a dose of colour. this one had a tendency to sheer out, so i'd recommend a careful [light] hand when blending. i also found that it faded faster than the other shades.

indie jasper #3
you'd think that this sort of icy green would be common enough, but it really isn't. the lighter green from "coup de foudre" is deeper and brighter, while mac "aquavert" is lighter.

l to r :: guerlain coup de foudre [l.e.], indie jasper, mac aquavert
fourth, we have the darkest shade in the palette, a medium-deep moss green/ khaki. it's firmer than the lighter shades, but gives great colour. the lighter colours in the palette make it look darker than it really is, but in fact it's enough to offer some contrast without sacrificing the overall softness of the palette. the lasting power was very good, although, like a lot of such colours, it tended to fade to a greyish looking shade by late in the day. it's a very good iteration of this kind of shade, but i found myself wishing that they'd done something a little different- a slightly bluer dark green would have gone better with the shades of the palette overall.

indie jasper #4
i went back to compare this once again to "coup de foudre", but the darkest shade in that palette is quite a bit darker [to balance the brighter, deeper colours] and browner. chanel "les automnales #1" is brighter and warmer.

l to r :: guerlain coup de foudre [l.e.], indie jasper, chanel les automnales [l.e.]

finally, in the centre, we have a silver glitter. like a lot of glitter shades, it doesn't have much of a base colour, but i can see it being used to create a "frosted" effect when pressed over the other shadows. unfortunately, i can't speak a lot about what can be done with it, because i had an immediate allergic reaction when i tried it out on the inner corners of my eyes. a few days later, i tried using it farther away from my actual eyeball, but i still got a reaction. you can definitely expect some fallout from this colour, because the glitter isn't tightly bound together or anything, but that's pretty much all i can tell you. it's a complete no-go for me.

indie jasper #5
i don't have a good dupe for this, mainly because i tend to avoid very sparkly shades. they irritate my eyes...

you've already seen "indie jasper" in action once, in the review i did of products from rituelle de fille, but here's another application. i took a bit of a chance with this one, using the peach colour along my lower lash lines and in the corners of my eyes. i'm a little mixed about the result, but i think that it does clearly show the pinkness in the shade. the lipstick here is armani rouge ecstasy in "plum vinyl", which you can read about here.




this is a super-soft look, largely featuring the peach shade, which is probably my favourite in the whole palette. i used it all over the lid, with the vanilla used as a highlighter and just a little on the inner corners of the eyes. the darkest shade is dusted very lightly in the crease and the light green is dusted along the lower lash line, which gives a really nice "calming" effect. the lipstick is nars bilbao.



and while i didn't get decent shots of my first attempt with the palette [not enough light], here are a couple just to show how the silver glitter shade looked for about ten minutes, before it made my eyes explode. [actually, you can already see that it's causing increased creasing under my left eye. i have crow's feet, but they're not that pronounced.] lipstick is the sadly discontinued dior "chic pink".



this is a nice palette, but i feel like it isn't quite up to the high standards of the permanent palettes. it's an option for people who want a delicate, icy look and, if you can handle the glitter, i think it would be beautiful for a night out. it's definitely an option for women who like a lighter look to their makeup overall, but don't want to stick strictly to neutrals. 

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