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making faces :: fall for all, part 3 [a seasonal colour analysis experiment]

well this one was a doozy. in fact, without prejudicing the yet-to-be-completed fourth and final segment of this experiment, i'm going to say that this is probably the hardest of the four parts. for those of you who just dropped by and aren't sure what you've gotten yourself into, i've been doing a spin on typical autumnal looks in both makeup and clothing interpreted for the twelve sci/art colour analysis "seasons" [archetypes]. i started off easy with "autumn for autumns", then moved on to the darker [and brighter] side with "autumn for winters" and now we've moved on to "autumn for springs".

i touched last time on how, whereas the cooler summer and winter seasons can play around with using elements of each other's palettes, warmer seasons absolutely do not. i actually find that it's easier to incorporate typically autumn colours [in small amounts] into an outfit or makeup for cool-toned summers [because both palettes are muted] or winters [because both are dark]. spring warmth is the gold of morning sun, of peaches and nectarines and strawberries, or barley candy- saturated and clear. autumn is the rich amber gold of the late day, of the fields at harvest time, of dried fruit and jars of spices in the pantry. autumn colours look like dirt on spring skin and spring's colours look like plastic on an autumn.

nevertheless, people with spring complexions have to dress themselves in the autumn and would like to find ways to incorporate the warm and woolly layers, the darker side of their otherwise light palette and the warm, smoky, comforting looks that abound at cosmetic counters and in retail clothing stores at this time of year. and this challenge is especially close to my heart because, while i can't be certain, i strongly suspect that i have some spring in my colouring [as either a bright winter or bright spring] and yet i adore the fashions of autumn. this is my conundrum.




bright spring

i expected this one to be more of a problem than it was. although bright season fashions tend to be smart, sharp and sleek, there is room within the bright spring palette for some intense oranges and tomato reds, which read as autumnal. call it the last gasp of winter's red-toned influence. red is assuredly welcome in autumn.

makeup-wise, i thought this was a perfect opportunity to pull out a purple. as the colour wheel opposite of yellow in the season that wears contrasting colours better than any other, there are purples for every spring tone [even true spring, which would seem too warm to accommodate purple shades, has a small selection]. bright spring, with that combination of winter red and spring yellow, does really well with purples.

unsurprisingly, bright spring is most similar to bright winter, just a bit warmer and lighter. like bright winter, the diffuse smoky eye that's so popular at this time of year is extremely tricky, so i chose to go very soft and smoky with a palette of warm neutrals and to focus on the other seasonal staple: the strong lip.




products used

the base [for all looks] ::
nars all day luminous weightless foundation "mont blanc"
dior star concealer "001"
mac paint pot "painterly"

the eyes ::
guerlain e/s palette "les sables" [warm, peachy neutrals]
mac fluidline brow "deep dark brunette"
lancome lash primer
guerlain cils d'enfer mascara

the cheeks ::
nars blush "outlaw" [wild rose pink with gold sheen]
hourglass ambient lighting powder "luminous light" [candlelit glow]

the lips ::
armani rouge ecstasy l/s "garconne fatale" [deep berry purple]*

*suggested alternate :: garconne fatale = armani rouge ecstasy "attitude" [redder]

and it would have been perfectly appropriate to do a pop of colour on the eyes for bright spring as it was for bright winter, but i'd already done that and, as you can see, there's some pretty intense colour in the outfit.



i adore that bright, saturated orange-verging-on-red. i love it in makeup, i love it in clothes. it can be difficult, because it's the sort of colour that just reflects off everything, but if you can wear it, i say go for it. although the bright seasons with their requirement for high contrast tend to do better with the sort of lean silhouettes that convey energy and mobility, it's perfectly possible to incorporate a little layering into the mix. soft blouse + beloved cardigan + subtly patterned scarf in a contrasting colour + silk jacket + pencil skirt + patent leather pumps = autumn layering in a very un-busy way. by the way, the jacket is reversible. you saw the other side of it last time in the bright winter look.

true spring

although matching spring warmth to autumn warmth is tricky, i knew from the beginning how i was going to approach this one: through the power of green. green is all over the true spring colour palette, because yellow is such an important component of it. and while autumn may be about the shift from green to the fiery, fading reds and golds, there's still a lot of green to be seen. there are the leaves, of course and the grass, which will eventually become frosted wither, but which stays green for much of the season. and there's also the greens of the final vegetable harvests of the year, some of which are more autumnal, but many of which capture something of spring's inner sunlight.

it was thinking about capturing sunlight when i did come up with an example i liked of an area where spring's fresh, sweet colouring does very much invade the autumn: in jams and preserves. this is the season of them, after all, because at some point, you have to admit that you're not going to be able to eat the eighteen pounds of fruit you collected on that outing to the orchard. some of the preserves, the vegetable sauces and green tomato chutneys, look like autumn. but when you look at the fruit jellies and marmalades, with their glossy clarity, you see spring. that's where i got the inspiration to do a bold lip like the super-powered colour of jams and jellies.




products used

the eyes ::
armani eyes to kill shimmer e/s palette "medusa" [shimmery apple green and moss green]
rouge bunny rouge e/s "unforgettable oriole" [white gold highlight]
rouge bunny rouge e/s "umber firefinch" [ash brown]
chanel le volume mascara brown

the cheeks ::
yves st. laurent les sahariennes powder blur skin perfector "abricot" [sunny apricot]

the lips ::
guerlain rouge g l/s "geneva" [bold translucent coral]

ahem... i made a wee boo-boo here. i either forgot entirely to take outfit photos, or they somehow were not saved but, yeah, there you have it. i mean, you can see the top part of what i was wearing, which was a combination of a very spring green and warm beige that i thought did a nice job of combining spring's lightness with a cosy autumnal vibe buy... yeah... learn from my fail...

light spring

i pretty much had to admit defeat with the aim of doing really typical autumn kind of look here. light spring is light, more saturated than not, and warm. i ended up parsing a bit and just going with warm. the trick here is that you can't get close to black in the light seasons without looking like you've tethered an anchor to them. of course, i'm decided not a light season person, which means that i felt kind of weird about this whole thing and because i almost always have a little black on me.

i chose to go with a sort of earthy warmth for this look, both in the makeup and the clothes. "earthy" is a relative term when it comes to spring warmth, but it's still that of the sun against the earth and the slightly hazy glow it casts, which is the first hint of summer's desaturation taking form. i'd also like to add that the photos of the makeup look turned out terribly. put it down to the fact that it was a sodden day with iron grey skies, but, while it wasn't exactly my usual look, this was more flattering than it looks in the shots. [i've used multiple outfit shots because i swear they give a better idea of the deepened, warmed nude effect of the makeup than the closeups.




products used

the eyes ::
nars e/s duo "st. paul de vence" [shimmery orange and soft ruddy brown]
mac e/s "dazzlelight" [shimmery neutral]
urban decay 24/7 e/l "underground' [medium shimmery taupe]
chanel le volume mascara brown

the cheeks ::
nars blush "deep throat" [soft peachy pink]
charlotte tilbury filmstar bronze & glow [soft brown contour/ champagne gold highlighter]

the lips ::
mac amplified creme l/s "warm me up" [deep nude with pink undertone]*

*suggested alternate :: warm me up = mac brave [lighter, pinker]

you know, if you look carefully, there are some hints about reviews i have coming up in the next little while throughout this post.

i went with the same sort of palette in the outfit as i did for the makeup, but it felt a bit like cheating to stick with only neutrals, so i topped things off with what i consider to be a perfect light spring red sweater. the material and the colour itself make this a muted red, but it still adds some colour punch, which is something all spring mixes can handle [within the scope of their palette].



although i didn't take a separate shot of it [must be with the true spring outfit photos...], the nail polish i was wearing for the week was chanel peridot, which is a perfect spring and autumn green, shot through with gold and purple. truly one of my favourite polishes.

we're three-quarters of the way there, people and i have to tell you, i think that the home stretch is going to feel a little easier. understand that i'm saying this having not yet started down the summertime trail, so things could get a little strange still. we shall soon see...

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