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making faces :: eclipsed by armani

astronomically, an eclipse is caused when one astronomical object or its shadow passes in front of another, temporarily block its light from reaching earth. as it happens, there's a similar phenomenon in the cosmetic world, where one company's offering temporarily seems to block all others from sight, because it is just so covetable and so thrilling that it's difficult to see what else is around. i'm assuming that's why armani named their fall collection "eclipse", because it is rather a perfect metaphor. thanks for giving me an easy intro, armani.

to be fair, armani's late summer/ fall offering is a little disjointed: the "eclipse" collection proper is made up of four of their eye tints, along with corresponding nail polishes and a highlight powder. there were also supposed to be coordinated eyeliners, but from what i can tell, those never made it to counters. this one has been out for a few months and while the products are still available, they are limited [to the best of my knowledge, because such things are tricky with armani]. they also very quietly released a half dozen new shades in their rouge d'armani sheer formula, which are apparently joining the permanent assortment, although i've only seen one or two of them pop up at my counters here in montreal. [they're more accessible in the united states, since you can buy from armani directly.] on top of that, they released one of their shadow and blush/ highlighter palettes, one eye tint and a lipstick, as their "runway collection". this is a group of colours made up to exactly match the shades used by armani at their fall 2015 fashion shows. they had a similar collection in the spring and while both look gorgeous, the prices decidedly do not. the palettes are marked up about eighty percent for the canadian market, but the formulas are exactly the same. and finally, armani has released a new product for lips called "ecstasy lacquer", which looks like a new gloss, but is something quite different.

that is a lot of products and not all of the launches have been very well promoted. i feel like armani's marketing plan isn't built to accommodate everything they're doing and so perfectly good limited and permanent products fly under the radar, so far under the radar that even their sales associates don't seem to know what's going on some of the time.

readers of this blog know that i'm a big fan of armani and that their last run of launches have particularly impressed me. so it comes as no surprise that i've indulged a bit in all these collections. perhaps more than a little bit. ok, definitely more than a little bit. are you judging me? because i'm feeling judged. oh, wait, that's me judging me. you're just reading this and wondering why i'm talking to myself. it happens more often than i like to admit.



to deal with the launches in a not-too-overwhelming way, i've decided to divide this up into a few posts, starting with the eye tints. these are clearly the stars of the "eclipse" collection, forming a glorious sunset palette together. the shades are a sparkling yellow gold ["zenith"], a brilliant orange ["sunrise"], a moody eggplant ["sunset"] and a midnight blue [the permanent shade "meniut"; ffs armani, it's spelled minuit and if you're selling in a french speaking market you should bloody well know that]. i figured that the gods of makeup have allowed me some time to think about whether or not i want to pick up the final shade, but i couldn't resist grabbing the three limited ones. such is the state of my rapture over the eye tints, which were originally launched in the spring.

the "eclipse" collection shades offer a range of finishes. i've discussed what those are here and these new ones pretty much fit within the same range. i haven't done comparison swatches below, because liquid to powder comparisons are a little strange looking at the best of times. i can easily say that i have no liquid or cream duplicates for any of them.

"zenith" is the most eye catching of the shades. it practically glows. it's gold, but it's a cooler, yellower gold than most of what you see on the market. note that i said cooler, not cool. it doesn't lean into greenish gold territory like mac "old gold" pigment or "gorgeous gold" eyeshadow. true to its name, it is like the sun as it reaches its highest point on a summer day. it's my first experience with one of the sparkling-finish shadows, although there are several available in the permanent assortment. in these, the base colour is sheerer, meaning that the shadow can be applied for a very light wash of colour with shimmer. i can imagine this would look beautiful worn over other shadows, or for a subtly glamourous "night out" look.

zenith
because the base colour is thinner, it's trickier to build it up to full opacity. it can be done, but it won't work in a single pass like some of the other colours. i had my best success patting it in place and waiting until it was dry to blend it. [unlike a lot of other cream or liquid products, eye tints blend like powders when dry with just a little more effort.] opaque, it is a megawatt colour, the sort of thing that is going to get noticed.

i was very happy with the wear time, but unfortunately, towards the end of the day, my eyes started to get itchy. this is why i can't wear a lot of cream and liquid eye products [chanel's illusion d'ombre formula is almost a complete no-go for me], so it might not affect everyone, but if you're at all sensitive to shimmer particles on your lids, this one might present a problem. i did get several hours wear without irritation, but i think this one is going to be limited to evenings out, where i won't have it on for a full day.

"sunrise" is a perfect orange, more metallic in finish, something along the lines of "cold copper". it's neither a bright tangerine nor a muted burnt shade of orange, but, once again, very reminiscent of the sky as the sun rises or sets. it's easier to get a smooth, even application with this one, although it isn't quite as smooth as some other shades. the colour payoff was excellent- even a little is enough to get a healthy pop of pigment- and it blends extremely well with either the other eye tints or powder shadows. this sort of rich orange is surprisingly hard to come by, because most lean yellow or red. unless you're very cool-toned, this shade is a must for blue eyes.

sunrise
this one was a little bit trickier for me to track down, but it is still available on the armani website and from nordstrom [who ship internationally]. it's well worth tracking down and [without getting ahead of myself] my favourite from the trio of new releases.

the final shade of the three limited ones is "sunset" a deep, dark eggplant that a bit like a more understated version of the eyes to kill potted shadow "lust red". it has less obvious shimmer, but it is a similar near-black shade. the texture is less obviously shimmery than "sunrise", more along the lines of "emeraude". while this makes it read as a more refined shade, it also makes it less obvious what the actual colour is. you can certainly see it if you wear the colour at full opacity [which requires a bit of layering, like "emeraude", since any unevenness is more obvious with darker colours], you can certainly see that it's a dark purple, but used in a smaller amount and blended, it reads more as a soft black.

sunset
that being the case, i still love this shade, because it's such a beautiful complement to the other two, and because it works with so many other colours. the eggplant-ness of it will be more or less apparent depending on what is next to it, so if you want to amp up the colour, pair it with other purple, plum and pink shades.

before i even brought these home, i knew that i was going to have to try them out together, just so i could get that perfect sunset eye. as it turns out, they work perfectly in this context, blending together enough to make the transition fairly smooth, but also offering distinct hits of colour.




i thought a pinkish shade would go nicely with the mix, so i dusted an older, limited item from mac, the mega metal eyeshadow in "mating call". it's a pink-violet shade that does go perfectly with the others in a sunset theme.

sticking with armani, i'm wearing their blush 509 "eccentrico" and the rouge ecstasy lipstick "pink bliss", which was released with the fuchsia maharajah collection earlier this year, but seems to have made its way into the permanent assortment.

the final eye tint i picked up was the limited "runway" shade. it's nameless, but something this lovely doesn't really need a name. it's a breathtaking bronze brown, lighter and warmer than the permanent shade "senso", at once a versatile neutral and a breathtaking, unique colour on its own. because of the ridiculous markup for canadians, i had been determined to resist the temptation of this one, but once i saw it and swatched it, i knew that all was lost. not only is the colour beautiful and suitable to a wide variety of skin tones, but the application is flawless. it is shimmery, but not metallic, more in line with the slightly softer finish of "rose ashes".

runway collection eye tint
i tried this one out in combination with a couple of limited mac shades [again, sorry], "sugar snack" and "hypnotizing" from the "shop n drop" eye shadow palette. i liked how the bronze tones in the eye tint blended with the pink tones of those powder shadows.




i unfortunately forgot to write down any of what i'm wearing on my cheeks, which i suspect is a blush/ highlighter combo, but on my lips is the armani ecstasy lacquer 601 "plum vinyl". let that be a little teaser for what's coming up next.

the bottom line here? armani eye tints continue to be just as amazing as i originally thought. there are three more coming out with their holiday collection and i have a feeling at least one of those will follow me home as well. 

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