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making faces :: summertime goth or golden?

pops of colour. ur doin it rong.
this is sort of an update on a post that i did a few years back, a contrast of a sunnier, warmer look with a paler, more dramatic and typically "gothic" look [also known as "what i'm more comfortable wearing"]. although i like the post itself, i've always felt like it was sort of imbalanced, because the photos of the summery, "tanned" look are much worse photos which tends to sort of bias the preference to one side. also, the bronzed look was paired with blue eye shadow, which is often pretty unfortunate on me.

since this summer has seen the introduction of a couple of products from guerlain and yves st. laurent that are more flattering at giving a sunlit glow to pale faces, i thought it might be time to revisit the theme. also, the original pale/ gothic look, while i like it very much, is something that i'd be inclined to wear more in the winter. i don't necessarily follow rules about what one can or can't wear at a particular time of year, but there's no denying that heavier, darker makeup quickly starts to look heavy and often "melty" in the heat of summer. so keeping those two things in mind, i thought i'd give this another try. [i'd like to think that i'm not doing this because i've run out of ideas. i don't think i have...]

in the time that i've been playing around in my amateur, random way with seasonal colour analysis and trying to figure out where i might fit in the spectrum, i have discovered that while i am fair, i'm not as cool-toned as i might have thought. [and not just me. because of my colouring, everyone seems to assume at a glance that my skin tone runs decidedly cool. in truth, it's much closer to neutral, even at the height of winter when my skin is at its whitest. and therein lies the really interesting part of colour analysis: until you see a range of colours against your skin, it can be difficult to predict what's going to work on you.]

so first up, here's a look at me embracing the warmth in 2015, courtesy of some new advances in products and colour:




products used

the base ::
nars all day luminous weightless foundation "mont blanc"
nars radiant creamy concealer "vanilla"
mac paint pot "painterly"

the eyes ::
inglot matte e/s "351" [yellow ivory highlight]
chanel e/s "tiger lily" [tangerine with white sparkle]
rbr e/s "golden rhea" [light gold]
mac prolongwear e/s "one to watch" [soft brown-orange]
stila stay all day pen e/l "lionfish" [shimmery golden brown]
dior new look mascara

the cheeks ::
ysl les sahariennes powder blur skin perfector "abricot" [light apricot]
guerlain terra inca sublime radiant powder [soft, shimmery rose gold]*

the lips ::
ysl gloss volupté l/g "bordeaux sarouel" [deep brick red]

rather than risk a repeat of the 70s porn blue shadow + bronzer look i did last time, i went with much mellower shades around the eyes [and warmer ones, in fact]. to get that sunlit look on my face, i dabbed the ysl blur powder [by the way, how long is it going to be before cosmetic product names exceed the character limit on twitter?] on the apples of my cheeks. i didn't really blend it out, just smoothed it a little with my fingers and my trusty mac 188. then i used a larger brush, my mac 150, to brush the terra inca powder on the outside of my cheeks. i didn't contour with it, but just used it to warm the outer part of my cheekbones. i did diffuse it a little further up and down at the edges, but it's something that's too shimmery to ever be credible as a contour. i haven't ever found a good replacement for "terra inca" [which is of concern to me, since i can see a sliver of the pan peeking through the powder], but based on photos, i think that becca shimmering skin perfector in "rose gold" looks reasonably close. ["blushed copper" looks a bit similar as well, but deeper.]

and now, here's me taking a stab at a more hot weather-friendly version of my usual kind of look.




products used

the base ::
givenchy teint couture foundation "elegant porcealain"
nars radiant creamy concealer "vanilla"
mac paint pot "painterly"

the eyes ::
dior fusion mono cream shadow "celeste" [icy matte lilac]*
mac e/s "nocturnelle" [deep red-purple]
mac e/s "carbon" [soft matte black]
mac e/s "memorabilia" [dusty cool purple]*
rbr e/s "alabaster starling" [shimmery eggshell]
urban decay 24/7 e/l "zero" [black]
dior new look mascara

the cheeks ::
chanel joues contraste blush "rose écrin" [beige pink]
mac blush "next to skin" [medium neutral beige]*

the lips ::
mac l/l "nightmoth" [blackened plum]
mac dazzleglass l/g "boys go crazy" [deep cool purple with blue/ silver shimmer]*

the lip for this was inspired by this "sumertime goth" look from auxiliary beauty. i love the look on her and i've seen the effect of a deeper, stained centre of the lip done very well on other people. on me, however, it just never seems to work. i think it's to do with the fact that i already have "bee stung" lips- meaning that they're already plumper in the centre and narrower and less pigmented at the sides. so adding heavier colour to the centre of the lips exaggerates this and makes it look like i'm pursing my lips in an unattractively uptight way all the time.

the lip gloss i used was originally released by mac years ago and has been brought back as part of their summer "le disko" collection. it's not a collection that called to me, largely since a lot of glittery products on my face looks less retro-disco-diva-fierce and more never-got-over-coke-and-the-seventies-sad. i like that "boys go crazy" is a colour that you don't see too often [purples, especially dark ones, are redder most of the time, although that's starting to change] and the sparkle isn't too over-the-top. i like the mac dazzleglass formula well enough, although it's not my favourite and doesn't wear terribly well. a dark colour like this is tricky both because it doesn't want to apply as evenly as i'd like and because it looks patchy as it wears. that said, it's not that easy to find a colour like this... [i have a swatch of it way back here.]

clearly, though, this look is focused more on the eyes and i'm pretty happy with the way those turned out. i figured i'd used a combination of a matte cream shadow that i knew could stand the heat and a smudgy look for underneath the eyes, since i don't get sweaty there. i wanted the look to be almost colour-blocked, with a contrast between the very cool, icy shade on the lid and the "classic" goth black + plum combo underneath. calling attention to the under-eye area on a woman of my, ahem, vintage is risky, but i think i'm helped by the fact that the dark colours sort of curve upwards at the sides.

as far as the limited products i've used, i have some bad news... i have never found a good match for either "celeste" or "memorabilia". for the latter you could try rouge bunny rouge "trumpeter koel", but it's bluer, greyer, darker... different. "next to skin" is lighter and pinker than mac "strada", although they're in the same family. that said, looking at the hideous new mac web site [i feel like i should get products for free just for being able to navigate that thing], "strada" doesn't seem to be available any longer. my advice would just be to use a standard contouring powder.

so there it is: old post revisited and revamped for 2015. i think that this round is a little more even, but largely because i feel like companies have finally started creating "bronzing" products for fair ladies who like their skin colour, ones that add glow without turning you brown or burnt orange. thanks for coming around to my side, guys.

p.s. :: wear sun block. if you look good tanned, good for you. there are about a million products out there that emulate tanning and most of them won't give you cancer. practice safe sun.

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dreamspeak

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