|a rose by any other name...|
bite has created four new lipsticks in a new formula called "deconstructed rose". along with a coffret of lip glosses bearing the same name, the collection is supposed to highlight the rose in all its varieties. the glosses run the gamut from very sheer to quite saturated, but the lipsticks are all pigment powerhouses. i was drawn to one [the deepest one, unsurprisingly] called "crimson", because i was on the hunt for a deep pink shade that didn't pull fuchsia. you'd be surprised how difficult that is to find.
first up, as you may have guessed from that description, "crimson" isn't crimson, or anything like what i'd associate with that description. crimson is a vibrant red, usually cooler-toned, but something altogether brighter than what we have here. it's described on the sephora web site as "muted dark purple", which is completely wrong. "crimson" the lipstick is a deep, wild rose pink. it definitely has some berry tones to it, without pulling purple, the way cooler berry shades often do. although it's bright, it lacks the high wattage impact of colours that lean more towards fuchsia, without moving too much into plum red territory.
|l to r :: rouge d'armani 402, crimson, guerlain gigolo, guerlain madame batifole [l.e.]|
i already love the luscious feeling of the luminous creme formula and deconstructed rose retains that. it is still luxuriously creamy, hydrating on lips and perfectly even in application. where deconstructed rose justifies its higher price is in lasting power and in a slightly more moisturising feel. left to its own devices, i find that "crimson" lasts for hours on me, whereas the luminous creme lipsticks tend to fade moderately quickly. there is a nice stain that remains afterward as well. eating or drinking something warm will make the wear uneven, so you'll want to touch up after those activities. when you're doing so, i recommend removing your lipstick and reapplying completely. it's quick, since one pass is all you need for complete coverage and when i 'cheated' and just dabbed on a little extra colour after a meal, i found that there was slight but noticeable feathering along my top lip shortly after. the oils in food will often cause this to happen with creamier formulas and while its far from the worst i've seen, it was enough to give a slightly blurred effect i didn't care for.
one point that has come up repeatedly in reviews i've seen is the scent. regular bite lipsticks have a sweet herbal scent- i liken it to verbena- and faint taste that fades quickly. the deconstructed rose lipsticks use rose geranium oil, which has slight anesthetic and astringent properties. the scent is noticeably strong and quite distinctive. if you've smelled rose geranium before, you'll recognise it immediately. there is also a taste, much like rose candies. it's sweet and floral without being sickly. myself, i really like both the scent and taste, but if you're sensitive to such things, you can write this formula off entirely. it is strong compared to other lipstick scents and many find it peculiar. furthermore, it never entirely fades. i could still smell it a little when i removed the lipstick hours later. it's a matter of personal preference, but i'd be remiss if i didn't mention it.
the bottom line? i'm absolutely in love with this colour and formula and i wish that bite would bring out more colours. of the four that they've released, i think that i could wear three, however "crimson" was the one that really bowled me over. with the caveat that the scent may perturb some people, i can't come up with a reason not to love this. it feels so wonderful on the lips, wears well and actually seems to leave lips feeling better after wear. the pigmentation is stellar and quite dramatic without being shocking. [if you want something less bold, two of the four shades are softer.]
finally, here's a look at the shade in action. i also took this opportunity to play around using some favourite cream shadows as a base to emphasise similar colours. i applied "celeste" on the lids and "diapason" in the crease and then layered the other shadows over them. i loved the effect, which ironically looked a little lighter than just the cream shadows on their own, since the powders served to diffuse the colour a little.
the base ::
hourglass mineral veil primer
lise watier eye shadow base
nars radiant creamy concealer "vanilla"
yves st. laurent teint touche éclat foundation "beige 10"
the eyes ::
dior mono matte fusion cream e/s "celeste" [icy matte violet base]
chanel illusion d'ombre cream e/s "diapason" [plum with purple/ blue shimmer]
rouge bunny rouge e/s "lilac reef currasow" [light, soft violet]
rouge bunny e/s "solstice halcyon" [browned mauve]
le metier de beauté e/s "fire lily" [shimmery warm cranberry]
mac e/s "vanilla" [peachy highlight]
urban decay 24/7 e/l "invasion" [dark teal]
ysl effet faux cils mascara "noir radical"
the cheeks ::
mac blush "azalea" [bright hot pink with red shimmer]
bobbi brown highlighter "porcelain pearl"
the lips ::
bite beauty deconstructed rose l/s "crimson" [deep rose pink]
bite beauty is available exclusively through sephora, who have shown themselves to be a great partner for the brand. the deconstructed rose shades are limited edition. and in case you were wondering, that photo above is a rose geranium, not a rose.